Yves Saint Laurent & Photography
This exhibition at the International Center of Photography is a must-see
Yves Saint Laurent by Harry Meerson, 1966
For Yves Saint Laurent, life was never boring. But after succeeding Christian Dior, being drafted into the military, and forming his eponymous label, things got really interesting for the designer. And you can see it in the clothes. At the International Center of Photography’s “Yves Saint Laurent and Photography” exhibition, you see it in the photographs.
As Saint Laurent continued to take brilliant risks with his label—which he formed in 1961 with Pierre Bergé—he appeared more magnetic than ever. One of the 300+ photographs on display in this exhibition includes a portrait of Saint Laurent which is believed to be the first nude marketing campaign. Controversial for its blatant nudity and luminescent halo-effect created by Jeanloup Sieff in 1971, it was published by Vogue Paris after being rejected by several other sources. His risks directly correlated with the freedom for women to take risks. And as anyone who can define a bias cut will tell you, the work was just so good. He launched his Rive Gauche ready-to-wear line in 1966, and in the same year, introduced the Le Smoking women’s tuxedo merging menswear with womenswear. He embraced controversy by shortening hemlines in 1971 with the Libération collection. His risk-taking extended into the production of shows, like Ballet Russe in 1976—the first runway show with accompanying music. The firsts continue as Yves Saint Laurent was the initial recipient of a retrospective for a living designer by the Met Museum.
The “Yves Saint Laurent and Photography” exhibition is on view through September 28, and it is filled with sensual and intense photographs, raw and vulnerable shots, and plenty of images featuring the designer with his business and lifelong partner, Pierre Bergé. And while I’m sharing imagery, viewing these through a screen do not do the show justice. Standing in front of these for yourself is worth it, and brace yourself for a magical exhibition of fashion photography.
Yves Saint Laurent stills by Harry Meerson in 1966.
Catherine Deneuve in “Hommage to Pop Art” from FW66 haute couture photographed by Helmut Newton
Various fashion editorials featuring YSL
Dresses from “Hommages to Pop Art” FW66 haute couture collection photographed by Jean-Claude Sauer for LIFE, September 1966
Yves Saint Laurent photographed by Jeanloup Sieff in 1971. This portrait would promote his fragrance, Pour Homme, and it was published in Vogue Paris in December after being rejected by several newspapers.
Coat worn by Willy van Rooy from spring/summer haute couture. Published in Elle, March 1971, and photographed by Hans Feurer.
Portrait of Yves Saint Laurent by Andy Warhol in 1972
Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé during a renovation project in 2004. Bergé’s looming presence in the background is a physical representation of his power within the couple’s business dynamic. This photograph by Patrick Demarchelier truly tells a thousand words.
Polaroids were essential for the couture house and recorded styling choices from 1968 through 2002. The YSL musée in Paris houses nearly 6K polaroids.
Yves Saint Laurent by Helmut Newton in 1969