One throughline in most of the spring-summer trends was a desire for fun. Through a specific color or repeated details associated with the disco-era or executing whimiscal designs for one accessory (looking at you, hats), a desire for designs that take the edge off were spotted across fashion month. Multiple designers admitted to this when remarking on their collections, and some of these quotes are included in my previous coverage of New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. Overall, the collections were the result of engaging honestly with the world and politics. In a time of wanting to see change and embrace a different energy, refreshment came from falling in love with whimsy. Yes, there were specific trends. But they each come back to this word: whimsy.
Valentino SS27
Embracing the Clash
Pattern clashing took to new heights, and this was best showcased at Dries Van Noten. In my Paris Fashion Week coverage, I noted that maximalism endures at this house under the direction of Julian Klausner. But at times, this SS27 collection pushed the clashy agenda just past its limit. Valentino brought some brash, party-ready looks that play with clashing, too. But through a goal to communicate a loud message and a desire to be seen, the Valentino collection conveys a sense of harmony. And unsurprisingly, Moschino brought mixes of print and pattern in Milan.
Dries Van Noten SS27
Dries Van Noten SS27
In a Word: Chartreuse
There were so many examples of chartreuse across the runways of New York, Milan, London and Paris. Electric yellow, neon hues and verdent green chartreuse all arrived and felt like one of the more obvious trends for the upcoming season. The designers incorporating the chic shade include Balenciaga, Courrèges, Miu Miu, Simone Rocha, Chopova Lowena, Soraya Rodrigo, and more. But we’re going to devote a separate article to this one.
Soraya Rodrigo SS27
Disco Inferno Through Fringe
Literal fringe made a repeated appearance in the collections for spring-summer 2027. But fringe also took on a more liberal meaning and the boundaries around the concept dissolved. Tassels took over in some pieces from J.Salinas and one particular piece at Balenciaga. Frayed edges appeared in a more supporting role at Mugler and Etro. Whether we call it true fringe or tassels, these seventies-era strands were everywhere.
Mugler SS27
Etro SS27
Knee-length Skirts
There was plenty of underwear on runways this season, and that’ll be covered next. But skirts at knee-length (a definite recession indicator) were shown across various runways. Prada’s collection of skirts included 63 looks — all skirts. Ferragamo showed a beautiful collection that deserved more conversation surrounding it. In my Milan Fashion Week coverage, I mentioned that Ferragamo delivered the sensuality that Gucci was striving for and instead of revealing it through skin and fur, it showcased it through leather and latex. But sheer knee-length skirts were a repeated look in this collection. Moschino and Dries Van Noten also included knee-length skirts in their shows.
Prada SS27
Bras Tops & Bandeaus
Serving as a contradiction in energy to longer skirts, bra tops and bandeaus were everywhere in SS27 collections. This seemed as prevalent to me as the presence of chartreuse on runways. At Prada, they were paired with knee-length skirts providing a tension between exposure and coverage. But these also appeared at Balmain, Tom Ford, Courrèges and Fendi. At Miu Miu, the look was more sporty or found in rhineshones and layered on top of shirts. At Hermes, it was a bandeau— also seen in Amber Valletta’s all-white look for Stella McCartney. But I’m wondering if this is just an effort to cut costs? First, the increasingly cropped top (at similar pricing) and now bandeaus (at non-bandeau pricing, perhaps)?
Tom Ford SS27
Weird Caps
The hats and headpieces were weirder than normal this season (not a judgment). I think some of these will take off, and we’ve already seen the rise in crocheted caps and rhinestone headpieces this FW26 season. But for the SS27 season, Drew Henry, in his debut as Creative Director of Courrèges, designed bulky hats. Hats that become the conversation showed up at Mugler. Celine also embraced warped hats this season. And Chloe’s hooded raincoat and very functional rain caps became a focal point in their collection.
Mugler SS27
Chloe SS27