A New York Fashion Week Recap

Longstanding names, independent designers and up-and-comers filled an exhilarating New York Fashion Week. I’ve said in past years that if you think NYFW is dead, you’re not paying attention. And it applies to this year, as well. Independent designers are often providing the thrill and story that most are looking to larger houses to provide.

In addition to smaller names, indy labels and community showings, there were a couple of notable pieces of fashion news leading up to the shows. Conner Ives returned to the NYFW circuit. A lot of chatter led up to the Calvin Klein show with increasing pressure on Veronica Leoni. And there was a similar anticipation building around the DVF show where Henry Zankov would debut his first runway show as Artistic Director. So let’s start there….

Zankov’s debut for DVF kicked off the shows on Thursday with a bright, geometric collection that spoke to the disco-touched origins of the brand. Multiple references were made to the wrap dress, even if through belted looks. Shown along the Chelsea-based Highline, the wind really served to show the breezy looks and elevate the New York woman.

DVF

Carolina Herrera celebrated her 45th Anniversary show with a distinctly New York themed show. Held in Lincoln Center, the show was inspired by the women of Park Avenue, and like the avenue’s median, yellow tulips lined the runway. Dare I say that this taxi-cab-yellow New Yorker dress might’ve been one of my favorite pieces of the season? Fun fact: that specific design was pulled from The New Yorker cover published on the day of Herrera’s first collection 45 years prior. The cover design was by Lonni Sue Johnson.

Carolina Herrera

One of the most adventurous, exciting shows was Selkie whose show titled “The Ghost Ship” brought a merging of romanticism and punk with feminine, rock and grunge elements throughout.

Selkie

Patbo brought fun femininity through bold colors and fringe, and the show had a cohesion that some others lacked this season. Unapologetic tones, including magenta, mustard, lilac, teal and chartreuse really stole the show.

Patbo

Indigenous New York Fashion Week ushered in its second year over the weekend with designers grouped into thematic shows, like “Emerging Voices,” “Knowledge Keepers”, and a couture show wrapped up the three days of shows. Co-founded by Korina Emmerich and Liana Shewey, the program featured 30 Indigenous designers and 120 Indigenous models with production, hair and makeup teams that were entirely Indigenous-led. Shows were held at the American Indian Community House, and the event was officially listed on the CFDA New York Fashion Week Calendar. This year, the program’s couture show featured four designers including Josh Tafoya, Delvene Cockatoo-Collins, HAKHU, and TOC Legends. An opening performance by Acosia Red Elk preceded the four shows.

Josh Tafoya | Indigenous New York Fashion Week

Sabyasachi gained a lot of recognition for appointing Christy Turlington as the opener of their show, but the designs were worth noticing for their contemporary takes, Indian embroidery and the debut of a jewelry collection which is part of a partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Not to mention that it was their return to NYFW following an 18-year hiatus. Heels, blazers, hats and multiple looks that move from office culture to happy hour felt like “millennials grown up.” Maximalism, the return of the jean vest and the resuscitation of the cummerbund were some standouts from the show.

Chan Luu had a sophistication and ease to it that was quite magnetic. The collection was predominately beige and black with splashes of seafoam and sunny yellow, but the textures conveyed a sensuality that whispers along with fun geometric details and artistic embellishments.

Connor Ives returned to the NYFW circuit showcasing mens and womens on the runway. Drop waisted party dresses were the standouts. Ralph Lauren continued to be an elegant, romantic and sophisticated delight. Heirlome brought a beautiful and thoughtful collection which at first glance has a mostly neutral palette with fun tassels and the occasional cummerbund (a continuation of a Spring 27 theme). But the highlight here is the partnership they have with Oaxacan artisans that began with a Fall 2024 print collaboration. For this current collection, they reissued the prints and debuted hand-carved jewelry inspired by the Zapotec calendar and Maricarmen Jimenez’s ancestral craft.

Heirlome

I had been eagerly anticipating Calvin Klein to see if Veronica Leoni had turned things around from the past shows — and she did. This was the stripped back minimalism that I think we had all been anticipating from the house since the start of her tenure.

One show many went ga-ga over was Thom Browne. Sometimes, a designer faces a choice (whether internally or externally motivated) where they can pour energy into the designs or choose to sell a spectacle. Rarely can the creative director’s energy be divided between the two and succeed in both. For this season, Thom Browne chose spectacle. For the most part, these are not clothes you wear. They only work within a fantasy garden where you don’t engage with other people — much like the set of the show. Of course, the set recalled Matthieu Blazy’s most recent Chanel show. But some designs echoed Jonathan Anderson’s garden-focused details for Dior found on shoes and bags. On the heels of the success of those designs, I believe that Browne’s ladybug and bee shoes will sell. Overall, I think many fashion folks who don’t purchase or wear Thom Browne were amused by the flowery spectacle. I can imagine that the brand’s loyal customers and buyers are disappointed.

Thom Browne

Lastly, I wanted to make it to The People’s Runway, and I didn’t hear much this year about the designers and their work. Last season, this runway was captured and promoted widely. What did manage to go viral from this season’s show was a surprise performance by Ms. Lauryn Hill and Wyclef Jean. What a fortunate crowd! Alas, there’s next season — filled with designs, spectacles and performances — to anticipate.